Basic Brush  Structure

For a maximum performance and durability, certain hair types and shapes work best for your performance.

Hair/Bristle
Hair for artist's brushes can be divided into two categories for nail tech: Kolinsky and Synthetic.

KOLINSKY/RED SABLE

Best use for acrylic systems

Brush hairs are obtained from members of the weasel family with "red" hair. The Quality and characteristics of weasel hairs vary greatly.

The finest soft brush hairs are obtained from the Kolinsky, a Long-tailed weaseled animal found in cold regions of Russia and China. Each Kolinsky hair has a fine point, and its overall structure ensures that the hairs cling closely together when wet. More specifically, the guard hairs from the tail of a male Kolinsky make the best brushes. These hairs are unsurpassed for spring and strength, they are the standard by which all other soft hairs (synthetic or natural) are judged.

Red sable brushes of lesser quality may be made of hair taken from other body areas of the male Kolinsky, female Kolinskies (shorter hair) and other European or Chinese weasels.

Red Sable hair has a natural thickness at the belly which provides superior spring and snap. This thickness can be placed just inside or outside the ferrule and the performance characteristics of the brush will vary accordingly. In order to do this, long hairs must be used and about half of their length will be contained inside the ferrule.

Because of their strength, spring, and absorbency, high-quality Kolinsky  brushes are considered to be the best for Acrylic, which requires that a brush be able to hold the liquid long and retain a fine point when wet.

Important to this ability to hold liquid are the absorbent properties of a brush. This is its ability to act as a reservoir and release liquid in a controlled manner according to a nail tech. Natural hair has a center structure called the medulla which is covered by a thick sheath known as the cortex and layered by a shell of scales. These scales and hollows within the center structure hold and trap the liquid, releasing it as pressure is applied to the brush.
 

SYNTHETIC
Today, with the technology to produce a variety of synthetic fibers, synthetic brushes are now the choice for gel or many applications, including fine art.

The word nylon is often used to generically represent synthetic fibers. In artist brushes this synthetic fiber is actually polyester. "Taklon" is a trade name commonly used. Each filament is tapered, ending in a fine point. Often the filaments is dyed, to make it softer and more absorbent.
 

A synthetic brush is usually less expensive than a comparable quality natural hair brush.

Brush Shapes and Their Uses
 

ROUND

- Use on point, or apply pressure to make thick-to-thin strokes.

- This is the less common use by nail tech.

- Strokes with soft edges. 

-  A round brush have a largest belly hold a large amount of liquid monomer offering the versatility of multiple strokes. Pick up acrylic powder by the point and form a round ball.

OVAL

- This is the most common and versatile style of brush.

- Strokes with soft edges. Blending. A natural flower petal shape.

- The oval brush is same structure with round brush but manufacture press to flat ferrule to have a shape between round and flat.

-  A Oval brush have a large belly hold a large amount of liquid monomer offering the versatility of multiple strokes. Pick up Acrylic powder the from one side of brush.

FLAT
 

-  This brush has a square tip with long bristles giving it added flexibility.

-  A Flat brush have a flat belly hold a small amount of liquid monomer, offering maximum control for apply acrylic or gel. Pick up Gel or Acrylic powder from one side of brush.
 

Brush Care & Tips.
 

Proper use, together with correct care and cleaning will ensure your brushes have longer life.
I hope the following tips will help.

-  Storage is important - always keep aired and whenever possible, in the upright position. Natural hair needs to breathe in order to prevent mould growth. Keep your brushes out of direct sunlight.

-  Try to keep handles dry, to prevent them from loosening and cracking. When you dip the head into liquid monomer or brush cleaner, try to keep the liquid level below the crimping and only wet the ferrule.

-  Moulting or shedding hairs from a new brush is a normal process. Once the brush is broken in and following a few application sessions the moulting will stop. Always thoroughly rinse a new brush with brush cleaner or liquid monomer before first use.

-  Always clean a good quality brush thoroughly after each processing session with brush cleaner or liquid monomer DO NOT USE ACETONE because Acetone will remove the shine from bristle make acrylic tacky and buildup residue. Remove as much moisture as possible with paper towel and reshape before storing.